Men’s Fashion Week :: Missoni and Rick Owens

Two looks from Missoni's Spring 2011 menswear collection.

Missoni: A quick look at my closet would tell you that my favorite colors are gray and black, so in springtime I always find trouble leaving behind the muted shades of fall and winter. Missoni's Spring 2011 menswear collection immediately grabbed my attention with its vibrant knits and laid-back vibe, immaculately executing what I am so hard-pressed to do when the sun finally emerges out of the Bay Area fog.

The Cosby sweater reinvented by Missoni.

Every look in the collection makes a playful yet composed outfit, but the individual pieces could be incorporated into a variety of men’s styles, whether you’re a Trendy Tom or a Practical Patrick. The suit-like trousers and shorts are roomy but not quite baggy, which will entice male shoppers less-than-eager to adopt the skinny jeans and short-shorts favored in past seasons. The bright, geometrically-patterned cardigans mesh well with the unostentatious plaid button-ups, creating a fun juxtaposition of patterns without bombarding the eye.

Missoni does windbreakers and sweater vests.

The baggy windbreakers recall the early-1990s b-boy style, harkening back to the old school hip-hop era. However, the oxfords and miniature collars add an element of the classic gentlemen. I imagine this collection being worn by a more chilled-out Kanye West if he spent some time strolling around Berkeley on a crisp, sunny day eating Ici ice cream cones.

Two looks from Rick Owens' spring collection.

Rick Owens: Rick Owens is a captivating designer for many reasons. For one, he seems to prefer models who could pass for his doppelgangers—gaunt, pale, muscular and with waist-length locks. His design style is instantly recognizable with his penchant for black sleeveless tops, baggy pants and various draped and spiked vests, jackets and accessories. Owens’ Spring 2011 menswear collection fits in seamlessly with the designer’s austere architectural aesthetic, not failing to build innovative structures out of unembellished fabrics.

Owen's Universal Uniform.

In an interview with former BARE editorial director Connie Wang for Vice Magazine, Owens professed his interest in creating a universal uniform. “This outfit takes me to the gym, to work in the studio, and then to dinner with a mink coat over it,” he says about his own look. Though this collection features several Owensian killer black trenches and a greaser-esque leather jacket, it somewhat departs from this all-purpose mentality. Several zippered short-sleeved frocks recall futuristic monastic robes. The sheer white tees and one-shoulder tanks could easily be paired with warm-weather board shorts or ankle-grazing jeans.

A few more looks from Rick Owens. All images courtesy of Style.com.

If you’re going for vampire-like pallor a la Owens, chances are you won’t be doing much basking by the pool or seaside. Somewhat facetiously, a few of the vests have side-swept collars that look like they’ve been blown in the warm breeze. Even the diehard purveyors of Owens’ Goth look can look like they’ve been having fun in the sun.

Nastia Voynovskaya
Editorial Director

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